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Hair loss is an upsetting, and very common, beauty concern. In fact, fewer than 45 per cent of women reach the age of 80 with a full head of hair.* Given the noise and misinformation around the subject, I asked Dr Stefanie Williams, a top dermatologist who has spent 20 years treating patients with hair loss and scalp issues, for her expert advice. Short answer? Stop wasting your time and money on hair products and growth-boosting supplements that promise miracles. Instead, invest in medication and in-clinic tweakments…
Common causes
Conditions that can affect hair growth include thyroid disorders, iron deficiency, autoimmune conditions, chronic stress and hormonal imbalances. Scalp conditions such as psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis or fungal infections can also cause hair loss.
Feverish infections such as flu or Covid 19 can lead to telogen effluvium (temporary hair loss) due to the physiological stress of the infection on the body.
Some medications can trigger short-term shedding. Good sleep, de-stressing and a diet rich in complete protein, iron, zinc and B vitamins are advised. Avoid nutrient-stripping crash diets; and tight hairstyles that can cause traction alopecia, another hair-loss issue.
Beware weight-loss medication
The likes of Ozempic and Wegovy can cause temporary hair loss. It remains to be confirmed whether this is a result of rapid weight reduction ‘shocking the system’, a possible nutrient deficiency due to reduced food intake or the medication itself.
As has been reported, the drugs may also lead to hormonal shifts that could increase the risk of androgenic (hormonal) alopecia. In rare cases this could be permanent even after you have stopped taking the weight-loss drugs.
Who can help?
Be wary of the term trichologist. It isn’t a legally protected title in the UK – essentially anyone can call themselves one. Some may have completed courses or possess a diploma, but they can only recommend over-the-counter solutions rather than prescribe treatments, as they’re not medically qualified doctors or nurses. It’s best to consult dermatologists for scalp conditions such as hair loss.
Is your hair coming out in clumps? Are you losing more than 100 hairs a day? See somebody as soon as you notice changes in your hair-loss pattern rather than wait until you have visibly thinner hair. It only becomes noticeable to the naked eye when between 30 and 50 per cent of total volume is lost. The earlier hair loss is diagnosed and treated the better the outcome. (At Dr Williams’ Eudelo clinic, a hair-loss consultation with a medical doctor costs £395, eudelo.com).
What are the miracle drugs?
Hair loss is a huge industry, rife with treatments that promise too much, including many over-the-counter tinctures and shampoos, some costing hundreds of pounds. Minoxidil (present in Regaine) is an effective over-the-counter treatment that increases blood flow to the scalp when applied topically. This improves the supply of oxygen and nutrients to hair follicles. It also extends the anagen phase (or growth window) of the hair cycle, so hair gets longer before it falls out, and it inhibits hair-follicle cell death (apoptosis), too.
That said – importantly – it only works for between 30 and 40 per cent of patients. Combining minoxidil with other active ingredients like anti-androgens (hormone blockers) such as topical finasteride and dutasteride, improves patients’ outcomes. The cost for minoxidil solutions varies; a rough estimate would be £100-£200 for 100ml.
Testing is useful
It can identify which treatments are likely to work, saving you time and money. Eudelo offers blood tests for internal causes (medical conditions, hormones, nutrient deficiencies) at £150. A genetic hair-loss profile cheek swab (£360) can predict whether you will respond well to minoxidil.
Treatment time
PRP (platelet-rich-plasma) therapy works best for early-stage hair loss. It involves taking a patient’s blood, concentrating the platelets containing growth factors then injecting it back into the scalp. The concentrated platelets release growth factors that can extend the hair growth phase and improve follicle health. Treatment starts from £650 at Eudelo.
Exosome treatment and mesotherapy are also effective. Exosome therapy uses growth factors to improve the scalp ‘environment’ for hair growth and stimulate follicle regeneration. Mesotherapy involves micro-injections of vitamins, minerals and active ingredients directly into the scalp, delivering nutrients where they’re needed. Both therapies can extend the growth phase of hair cycles and increase blood and nutrient flow to hair follicles. Expect to pay from £300 each at clinics nationwide.
YOU recommends
For a budget-friendlier option it’s worth trying online service Hair + Me, which offers custom hair-loss treatment plans designed by two consultant dermatologists. You’ll be sent bespoke, prescription-strength hair-growth solutions from £34.99 a month. More details at hairandme.com. it’s worth trying online service Hair + Me, which offers custom hair-loss treatment plans designed by two consultant dermatologists. You’ll be sent bespoke, prescription-strength hair-growth solutions from £34.99 a month. More details at hairandme.com.
