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Constant advances in tweakment technology mean we’re faced with a never-ending list of new jargon. Polynucleotides, PDRN, exosomes, spicules and injectable peptides are the latest ingredients that have the industry abuzz – promising to tackle everything from dullness and fine lines to crepiness, redness and dark circles. But do they work? We asked top cosmetic medics to give us the lowdown.
Polynucleotides
Great for Rejuvenating the under-eye area.
Delivery style Injectable.
Lowdown Polynucleotides first caught our attention with those ‘salmon sperm facial’ headlines. To be clear, they are not salmon sperm. They are fragments of DNA chains sourced from salmon sperm that, once injected, prompt the skin to rejuvenate itself (‘biostimulators’, in medical jargon). Dr David Jack, aesthetic doctor at his eponymous clinic, says, ‘They are one of the most useful injectable skin-rejuvenating treatments we have for crepey, fragile or tired-looking skin.’ Polynucleotides work effectively on all skin areas, particularly under the eyes.
Watch out Ignore any aesthetician who says the results are instant. You’ll need at least three sessions, a few weeks apart, and to wait three months to see results.
Downtime You will be left with visible lumps at the injection sites for a few days. Book pre-weekend so you’re ready for work on Monday.
From £500 per session, adoniamedicalclinic.co.uk
PDRN
Great for Tackling redness, dryness and sensitivity.
Delivery style Injectable, serum or cream.
Lowdown PDRN has blown up over the past six months, but it was actually developed in Italy in the 1980s, as an injectable treatment for healing skin wounds such as burns and ulcers. It’s short for polydeoxyribonucleotide, and if that sounds similar to polynucleotide, that’s because it is. It’s a variation of it, just comprising shorter chains of those DNA fragments. This version can be used in skincare as well as administered through micro-injections (aka mesotherapy). The latter application is more effective, but either will decrease crepiness, improve elasticity and dial down irritation and inflammation (both of which fast-forward skin ageing).
Watch out Dr Sophie Shotter, aesthetic doctor at Illuminate Skin Clinic, flags that those with fish allergies should be more cautious with marine-derived products, as they can experience a reaction.
Downtime Minimal, with any redness fully subsiding in two days.
From £350 per session, illuminateskinclinic.co.uk
Exosomes
Great for Skin rejuvenation.
Delivery style Serum applied in conjunction with microneedling or lasering.
Lowdown Alice Henshaw of Allergan Aesthetics describes exosomes as ‘tiny messengers that help cells communicate to renew and repair tissue’. That works well in young skin, but as we age those signals dwindle. Exosomes prompt skin cells to act as they did in their prime. Typically, they are applied after microneedling or lasering, procedures that produce micro-injuries to offer exosomes a channel into the skin. There they repair irritation, decrease sensitivity and improve skin quality and radiance.
Watch out Products using human exosomes aren’t legal – look for fish and bovine-derived versions. Avoid injectable exosomes, a form of delivery that is unregulated in the UK.
Downtime Expect around two days of redness.
From £450 per session, harleystreetinjectables.com
Spicules
Great for Supercharging your skincare products.
Delivery style Skincare.
Lowdown Spicules are microscopic needle-like structures, often derived from marine sponge, and mostly incorporated into serums. They (painlessly) create microchannels in the skin, boosting the absorption of the active ingredients in your skincare. Dr David Jack says, ‘Spicules are more about making the rest of your skincare pack a bigger punch, so you can expect your products to deliver better on their promises (such as smoother, glowier skin). Spicules bridge the gap between injectables and skincare and are mostly used in at-home products rather than in-clinic treatments.
Watch out Spicules can cause a little tingling, redness and irritation – particularly on sensitive skin – so avoid using on irritated areas or combining with strong actives.
Downtime Sometimes an hour or so of redness.
Peptides
Great for Softening lines.
Delivery style Skincare or injectable.
Lowdown Peptides are amino-acid chains that soothe irritation and reduce wrinkles with the bonus that they can be tolerated even on sensitive skin. In recent months, Jennifer Aniston, Gwyneth Paltrow and social- media influencers have claimed that injecting them (intravenously like a vitamin into the body, rather than like Botox to the face), can deliver youthful skin as well as help with weight loss, injury recovery, athletic performance and mental function.
Watch out Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, owner of The Aesthetics Doctor, says most injectable peptides are ‘very poorly regulated, and there isn’t a lot of robust clinical evidence to show they work. Additionally, they are not licensed in the UK yet’. Stick to peptide skincare for now.
Downtime None for skincare.
STAR-INGREDIENT SKINCARE
If injections in your under-eye area give you the heebie-jeebies, these patches target the same area with topical polynucleotides and epidermal growth factors to smooth out crepiness and firm up bags.
Founded in Seoul and renowned for its innovative formulas, Medicube’s PDRN line has seen a 900 per cent growth since 2024, led by this popular serum. Aside from PDRN, there are five peptides to boost collagen production, and ocimum sanctum leaf extract to soothe irritated skin.
Lightweight yet still packing a powerful punch, this serum has pumpkin enzymes to exfoliate dead skin cells, leaving exosomes to penetrate the skin more effectively. The visible improvement we saw justifies the price tag.
This comes with a concentrate that’s applied first and contains the spicules that make fine channels to aid absorption, plus skin-restoring actives including collagen, panthenol and adenosine. Follow with the soothing sheet mask, which acts as an occlusive layer to seal it all in and hydrate.
Packed full of peptides to encourage the skin to strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and plump up crepey skin.
